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VEVOR Manual Pole Saw, 7.3-27 ft Extendable Tree Pruner, Sharp Steel Blade High Branches Trimming, Manual Branch Trimmer with Lightweight 8 Fiberglass Handles, for Pruning Palms and Shrubs

VEVOR Manual Pole Saw, 7.3-27 ft Extendable Tree Pruner, Sharp Steel Blade High Branches Trimming, Manual Branch Trimmer with Lightweight 8 Fiberglass Handles, for Pruning Palms and Shrubs

Pole Saw - Pro
Questions and Answers
47 Questions
How thick of branches is it designed to cut?
Branches with a diameter of 7 cm.
By vevor
What Material is the pulley made from? Is it plastic and have you had any issues with the rope coming out?
The pulley system works well but overall I did not like this product and returned it. I did not like the poles, it was wobbly. Please keep in mind I have a lawn care business and cannot use items that a normal homeowner would.
By Denise Byron
How thick of a branch can the pruner part, not the saw part, cut through?
I haven't used the pruner yet, but I believe it says how big in the right up. Look it up
By Martina Kitto
what's the max length you've used that's still manageable? 27 ft seems far fetched.
Short answer: Yes I use the full 27 feet. Long answer: That extra length equals longer reach and it's very handy for me because it keeps me farther away from the branch fall zone and it allows for a better cutting angle. It's a very long pole and can take some abuse, but don't horse it around. I'm 71 and I work stri… see more Short answer: Yes I use the full 27 feet. Long answer: That extra length equals longer reach and it's very handy for me because it keeps me farther away from the branch fall zone and it allows for a better cutting angle. It's a very long pole and can take some abuse, but don't horse it around. I'm 71 and I work strictly from the ground anymore, but I still have to tie off long branches to control/direct their fall. The full 27 foot length allows me to tie branches farther out [drape a rope with a block on it over the saw blade [teeth up] and reach it out to where you want it then rotate the saw blade teeth down to release it] -- and do it again a couple of feet above where I'm cutting -- I use the tree trunk as a gin pole so I can just lower the branch to the ground. The pole saw will bow and bounce as you saw back and forth when all the sections are attached. Don't rush it. A slow and steady pace works very well to overcome this. Trying to hold the pole saw horizontal [or as near as you can get to it] with all the sections screwed in is possible, but it puts a lot of stress on the pole saw and uses way too much physical energy. It's way easier to put enough sections on to reach the target branch at a sharp angle, then add more sections one at a time to go more horizontal and make your cut -- the branch always taking part of the weight off... Points to remember: With all the sections screwed in the pole is hard to maneuver quickly, but it gives you extra reach when you need it. Plan what you intend to do before you start. I've found that cutting the branch mostly through and then using the pike hook on the end of the blade to pull it down in a reasonable controlled way eliminates most blade pinch problems. I hope this was useful to you. By the way, the blade is very sharp and makes pretty short work of oak. Be safe. see less Short answer: Yes I use the full 27 feet. Long answer: That extra length equals longer reach and it's very handy for me because it keeps me farther away from the branch fall zone and it allows for a better cutting angle. It's a very long pole and can take some abuse, but don't horse it around. I'm 71 and I work strictly from the ground anymore, but I still have to tie off long branches to control/direct their fall. The full 27 foot length allows me to tie branches farther out [drape a rope with a block on it over the saw blade [teeth up] and reach it out to where you want it then rotate the saw blade teeth down to release it] -- and do it again a couple of feet above where I'm cutting -- I use the tree trunk as a gin pole so I can just lower the branch to the ground. The pole saw will bow and bounce as you saw back and forth when all the sections are attached. Don't rush it. A slow and steady pace works very well to overcome this. Trying to hold the pole saw horizontal [or as near as you can get to it] with all the sections screwed in is possible, but it puts a lot of stress on the pole saw and uses way too much physical energy. It's way easier to put enough sections on to reach the target branch at a sharp angle, then add more sections one at a time to go more horizontal and make your cut -- the branch always taking part of the weight off... Points to remember: With all the sections screwed in the pole is hard to maneuver quickly, but it gives you extra reach when you need it. Plan what you intend to do before you start. I've found that cutting the branch mostly through and then using the pike hook on the end of the blade to pull it down in a reasonable controlled way eliminates most blade pinch problems. I hope this was useful to you. By the way, the blade is very sharp and makes pretty short work of oak. Be safe.
By Jessie Habakkuk
How thick is the pole wall material?
Not sure how thick the pole saw cylinder is but it definitely feels strong enough to last even with a lot of use. I basically use it for hard to reach lower branch trimming. Would have been nice if the saw blade were more rigid which helps maintain a smooth cutting action
By Zenobia Jonathan
I don't know what the thickness is but it is ultra sturdy. I am more than happy with the way the poles are attached and in the unit itself.
By Edmund Lucius