Short answer: Yes I use the full 27 feet.
Long answer: That extra length equals longer reach and it's very handy for me because it keeps me farther away from the branch fall zone and it allows for a better cutting angle. It's a very long pole and can take some abuse, but don't horse it around. I'm 71 and I work stri…
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Short answer: Yes I use the full 27 feet.
Long answer: That extra length equals longer reach and it's very handy for me because it keeps me farther away from the branch fall zone and it allows for a better cutting angle. It's a very long pole and can take some abuse, but don't horse it around. I'm 71 and I work strictly from the ground anymore, but I still have to tie off long branches to control/direct their fall. The full 27 foot length allows me to tie branches farther out [drape a rope with a block on it over the saw blade [teeth up] and reach it out to where you want it then rotate the saw blade teeth down to release it] -- and do it again a couple of feet above where I'm cutting -- I use the tree trunk as a gin pole so I can just lower the branch to the ground. The pole saw will bow and bounce as you saw back and forth when all the sections are attached. Don't rush it. A slow and steady pace works very well to overcome this. Trying to hold the pole saw horizontal [or as near as you can get to it] with all the sections screwed in is possible, but it puts a lot of stress on the pole saw and uses way too much physical energy. It's way easier to put enough sections on to reach the target branch at a sharp angle, then add more sections one at a time to go more horizontal and make your cut -- the branch always taking part of the weight off...
Points to remember: With all the sections screwed in the pole is hard to maneuver quickly, but it gives you extra reach when you need it. Plan what you intend to do before you start. I've found that cutting the branch mostly through and then using the pike hook on the end of the blade to pull it down in a reasonable controlled way eliminates most blade pinch problems. I hope this was useful to you. By the way, the blade is very sharp and makes pretty short work of oak. Be safe.
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Short answer: Yes I use the full 27 feet.
Long answer: That extra length equals longer reach and it's very handy for me because it keeps me farther away from the branch fall zone and it allows for a better cutting angle. It's a very long pole and can take some abuse, but don't horse it around. I'm 71 and I work strictly from the ground anymore, but I still have to tie off long branches to control/direct their fall. The full 27 foot length allows me to tie branches farther out [drape a rope with a block on it over the saw blade [teeth up] and reach it out to where you want it then rotate the saw blade teeth down to release it] -- and do it again a couple of feet above where I'm cutting -- I use the tree trunk as a gin pole so I can just lower the branch to the ground. The pole saw will bow and bounce as you saw back and forth when all the sections are attached. Don't rush it. A slow and steady pace works very well to overcome this. Trying to hold the pole saw horizontal [or as near as you can get to it] with all the sections screwed in is possible, but it puts a lot of stress on the pole saw and uses way too much physical energy. It's way easier to put enough sections on to reach the target branch at a sharp angle, then add more sections one at a time to go more horizontal and make your cut -- the branch always taking part of the weight off...
Points to remember: With all the sections screwed in the pole is hard to maneuver quickly, but it gives you extra reach when you need it. Plan what you intend to do before you start. I've found that cutting the branch mostly through and then using the pike hook on the end of the blade to pull it down in a reasonable controlled way eliminates most blade pinch problems. I hope this was useful to you. By the way, the blade is very sharp and makes pretty short work of oak. Be safe.
By Jessie Habakkuk
The addition of sections will make it heavier and more difficult to maneuver as more are added. So at full length, for example, you'll want to guide the saw end into position while standing at 90 degree's to the blade end to get the blade resting on your target branch. You can then step back to whatever angle you thi…
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The addition of sections will make it heavier and more difficult to maneuver as more are added. So at full length, for example, you'll want to guide the saw end into position while standing at 90 degree's to the blade end to get the blade resting on your target branch. You can then step back to whatever angle you think most advantageous and begin sawing. I've done this. I'm in my late 60's and trust me it's doable. Product comes with a loping shear attachment which wouldn't be practical way up inside the tree bc, as you noted, it's just too heavy. However at lower heights the loping shear is sharp and very useful. My pole saw was worth every penny I paid and I love it.
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The addition of sections will make it heavier and more difficult to maneuver as more are added. So at full length, for example, you'll want to guide the saw end into position while standing at 90 degree's to the blade end to get the blade resting on your target branch. You can then step back to whatever angle you think most advantageous and begin sawing. I've done this. I'm in my late 60's and trust me it's doable. Product comes with a loping shear attachment which wouldn't be practical way up inside the tree bc, as you noted, it's just too heavy. However at lower heights the loping shear is sharp and very useful. My pole saw was worth every penny I paid and I love it.
By Ira Masefield
I used it a 21ft for cutting. Yes, 27ft is difficult but I have used it to remove stuck (i.e. sticks, prawns) debris in trees. It holds up very well, pleased with purchase.
By Verna Felix
I only got the 10 ft saw, worked well for me at full length. 27 ft ....probably be wobbly at about half of that. The length I got was perfect for me.
By Deirdre Chapman