Explore our full selection of condensate pumps for ice makers, air conditioners, dehumidifiers, high-efficiency furnaces, and more. VEVOR offers 1/245, 1/33, 1/24, and 1/12 HP models with tanks ranging from small 1/2-gallon units to larger basement units. Every pump includes a float switch, safety overflow cut-off, check valve, and vinyl discharge tubing. One of these pumps will fit your budget and lift needs, whether you need to drain a wall-mounted mini split or lift furnace condensate to a ceiling drain line.
Are you having trouble with water collecting around your heater or your basement dehumidifier? Gravity draining only works if a drain is below your equipment, which is rare. Automatic float-activated operation, a vertical lift of up to 20 feet, and safety switches that turn off the system before a single drop hits the floor are all features of VEVOR condensate pumps that solve that problem.
The application affects the tank size and material requirements, while the motor rating indicates how high and how far the pump can push water. Before you order, you need to confirm both.
The smallest common rating for a condensate pump is 1/245 hp condensate pump. This size is made for ductless mini split heads, where the pump is hidden behind the indoor unit or inside the wall cover. For a single room head, flow rates of about 2 gallons per hour work great. This type of mini split condensate drain pump is very quiet, usually under 25 decibels, which matters in a bedroom or office where people sit or sleep close to the indoor unit.
These units usually don't have any tanks at all. Instead, they use a thin sensor reservoir that activates when the water reaches a certain level. This small size lets you place it invisibly, without leaving an unsightly box on the wall. The lift height is typically 8 to 12 feet. That includes sending water up and over a window frame or across a room to an exterior wall, which is exactly what most ductless installations need from condensate pumps this size.
A 1/33 hp condensate pump can move 4 to 6 gallons of water per hour and lift up to 15 feet. This makes it the most common choice for central air handlers in homes and standard window or portable AC units. A 1/24 hp condensate pump can lift about 20 feet and move 7 to 10 gallons of water per hour. If the air handler is in the attic, the drain line may need to run a long horizontal distance before it reaches an outside wall, so that capacity works well.
Most of the time, a 1/2 gallon ABS tank comes with an AC condensate pump in this price range. The reservoir buffers the output so that the motor runs less often. This makes the noise less constant and extends brush life. A safety float switch is wired in series with your thermostat circuit for both ratings. The switch stops the cooling call if the tank fills faster than the pump can empty it. This helps protect plasterboard and flooring from water damage caused by a failed drain.
The workhorse rating is a 1/12 hp condensate pump, which can move 12 to 15 gallons per hour and lift up to 20 feet. Commercial rooftop units, big systems with many zones, and boiler rooms may need this output. More horsepower also makes long horizontal runs easier. In terms of resistance, every 10 feet of horizontal pipe is about equal to one foot of vertical lift. This means that basement installations that run to a faraway sump can benefit from the extra headroom.
At this rating, the tank's capacity usually doubles, typically to around one gallon. In humid places, where an AC system can make several gallons of water in a single afternoon, larger reservoirs make cycling even less likely. Check whether high-output condensate pumps have thermal overload protection. If a clogged line stops the impeller from turning, the motor shuts off automatically to prevent overheating and burnout.
One furnace condensate pump has to deal with a problem that none of the others do: condensate from high-efficiency condensing furnaces is acidic, with a pH level between 3 and 5. That requires plastic housings that won't rust and usually a neutralizer cartridge upstream. You should never put a regular AC pump on a condensing boiler. Acidic water damages tanks and impellers not made to handle it, breaking them within a season and usually voiding warranties.
With a dehumidifier water drain pump, you can run the unit continuously without emptying the bucket. The system can operate even when you are not there because many basements lack a floor drain. A pump moves water to a laundry sink or utility drain. An ice maker drain pump does the same thing, but check-valve quality matters more because irregular flow can cause water to backflow. Properly matched condensate pumps eliminate the need for manual emptying for all three uses.
After choosing the HP and application, the switch design, materials, and plumbing lines make or break the installation and the pump's life.
The single most important part is the safety float switch. If the water level rises faster than the pump can clear it, a normally closed switch in the low-voltage thermostat circuit turns off the HVAC system. This stops the overflow before it starts. Some models have an audible alarm or a dry-contact terminal that lets you connect them to a building control system. The small extra cost over a basic unit is worth it for early warning in finished basements and server rooms.
Check valves in the vertical release line stop water from draining back into the tank when the pump stops. Without one, the pump will keep lifting the same water, which can short-circuit the motor and wear it out faster than it should. Also, look for a tank lid you can remove and clean. Any water that stays still for a while gets algae and biofilm. Condensate pumps that are easy to access and clean last much longer than sealed ones.
On the discharge side, most units use 3/8 inch inner diameter vinyl tubing, and good pumps come with 20 feet of it. Before you order fittings, make sure you know the outlet barb size. Some types come in 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch versions. For placement, the inlet shape is important. Multi-port tank lids with two or three knockout inlets let you drain several sources into a single pump, such as an air handler and a humidifier. This makes the mechanical room less crowded.
The water should match the house's material. Use polyethylene for acidic furnace output, not ABS for neutral AC condensate. Mineral scaling that hard water leaves behind does not affect motor shafts made of stainless steel or impellers made of thermoplastic. Lastly, check the power and size against the space you have. Most home condensate pumps need to be mounted level, with a few inches of space above so you can remove the lid for regular cleaning.
VEVOR has pumps for every horsepower rating, tank size, and use, at prices much lower than HVAC supply stores charge. Their products range from hidden mini split units to heavy-duty 1/12 HP basement pumps. Each pump comes with a safety switch, a check valve, and discharge tubing. They also come with a warranty, quick delivery from regional warehouses, and helpful customer service. Check them out now to keep your system draining reliably all season.
Lift is based on grade. Small units can lift 8 to 12 feet, medium-sized ones can lift 15 feet, and 1/12 HP pumps can lift 20 feet or more.
No, condensing furnaces produce acidic water that damages standard ABS impellers and tanks. If your furnace produces condensate, use a pump with a rust-resistant housing.
Usually twice a year. To keep the water clear and prevent the float switch from sticking, flush the tank with vinegar or diluted bleach every time the seasons change.
Usually a broken check valve that lets water flow backward or a float that will not move. Check both before assuming the motor is broken.
You can usually get vinyl tubing in 20-foot lengths with an inner diameter of 3/8 inch. Before you buy more parts, make sure you know the outlet barb size.
